Pool Cues Information
Are you planning on buying a pool cue?
Any pool player can tell you the most important piece of equipment in billiards is their pool cue. For such a critical item you should not just drop into the corner sporting goods store and pick up the first straight stick that you see. There are many types of cues, many qualities of cues and many other considerations to think about before you go out hunting for a pool stick.
So what is the difference in pool cues?
The tip of a cue is usually made of leather or resin and can be flatter on the end or rounded. The flatter tip is usually for breaking shots that require straight accurate shots with no spin. The rounder tips are made to spin more easily; spin is also called putting English on the ball. Cheaper tips are single layer these are often found on bar cues. Higher quality tips such as those made by Talisman Billiards have several layers mounted on a firmer base.
Because the tip compresses and hardens after impact the tips tend to get glossy and smooth. This reduces the friction between the tip and the ball, which unfortunately results in a loss of control. Cue Chalk
is used to restore this friction. After a while, however, chalk just is not sufficient. At this point some players use a Tip Pik
to aerate the tip. Others may choose to use a tapper. Some people will then use a scuffer
to rough up the tip. At some point, despite your best efforts, the tip will flatten and become misshapen. At this point you will need to use a shaper to reshape the tip and rough up the leather. Eventually enough of the tip will have abraded that the edges of the curve are into the base. At this point it is time to replace the tip.
Behind the tip is the ferrule that is used to hold the cue tip on. The ferrule protects the cue shaft
from breaking by absorbing the impact from the cue ball. Ferrules are usually made of impact resistant plastic or bone.
The smaller end of the stick is called the shaft. Most shafts are made of wood but a growing number are made from wood coated in fiberglass. Fiberglass cues
have greater strength, but are more expensive and can be more difficult to replace. It is important to have a flexible shaft that can withstand flexing.
Behind the shaft is a joint. This is the attachment that the screw is threaded into. Joints can be made of wood, metal, plastic or bone. Joints are installed in the cue stick by attaching a screw type fitting on the larger end of the stick called the handle or butt. Some cue sticks have Uni Loc quick release joints
so breaking down and setting up a cue is faster.
The handle or butt of the stick is often made of inlays made of exotic wood, bone or shell. Various types of decorative wraps made of leather or other material are wrapped around the butt to absorb moisture and improve grip. The butt is usually the most decorative part of the cue. At the end of the butt is a bumper made to protect the cue from being rested on the ground or bumping into the wall or other objects. Within that bumper is a screw with weights. These weights are used to adjust the overall weight of the cue, within limits.
What does a pool cue typically cost?
That a hard one. Pool cues can cost anywhere between ten dollars up to tens of thousands of dollars depending on design and material. For example, The Intimidator by McDermott Cues is $150,000 and takes 1862 hours of handcrafting to make. This particular cue features a genuine Italian obsidian sphere and is inlayed with 24K Gold, has 46 individual parts, 210 separate inlays, a black Ultra-violet handle and wings.
A more typical price range falls between a hundred and a thousand dollars. Price is dependent to a large degree on the quality of the inlay or the workmanship, and often both. Some very fine cues are quite plain but cost more due to the quality of workmanship. Others may be nearly useless on the table but are quite pretty. Most are somewhere in between. Generally speaking, the best strategy when choosing a cue is to ask others, try out several cues yourself, and shop around. Generally speaking I never touch a cue that costs under a few hundred dollars and tend to stay away from any mass produced cue for anything other than a break stick, but I once found a beautiful Parrot custom cue that someone let go for $89, so do your research and keep your eyes open.
McDermott Cues With a commitment to excellence and decades of experience McDermott is the leading producer of fine quality custom crafted cues. Priced from $111 and up.
Viking Cues Infinitely straight and perfectly balanced, Vikings new F Series Cues are ready to take your game to the next level. Priced from $120 and up.
Schon Cues We feature the exquisite Schon STL collection, featuring classic favorites from years of cue making. Priced from $595 and up.
Predator Cues Predators unique construction produces a straighter, more consistent cue than any traditional one piece shaft. Priced from $405 and up.
Eliminator Cues Eliminator cues produce the smoothest and most consistent hits in the industry. The finest materials and construction. Priced from $60 and up.
Brunswick Cues –Brunswick offers a range of cues from the one-piece True balance to the top quality Master Stroke cue. Priced from $34.99 and up.
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That a hard one. Pool cues can cost anywhere between ten dollars up to tens of thousands of dollars depending on design and material. For example, The Intimidator by McDermott Cues is $150,000 and takes 1862 hours of handcrafting to make. This particular cue features a genuine Italian obsidian sphere and is inlayed with 24K Gold, has 46 individual parts, 210 separate inlays, a black Ultra-violet handle and wings.
Predator Cues Predators unique construction produces a straighter, more consistent cue than any traditional one piece shaft. Priced from $405 and up. Brunswick Cues –Brunswick offers a range of cues from the one-piece True balance to the top quality Master Stroke cue. Priced from $34.99 and up.
Eliminator Cues Eliminator cues produce the smoothest and most consistent hits in the industry. The finest materials and construction. Priced from $60 and up.
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